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The Greeks have been eating octopus since ancient times, and it's still on the menu of the country's many psarotavernes, or fish taverns.

On the islands, where the catch is often fresh, octopus is grilled over charcoal, seasoned with fresh lemon and served with ouzo. Friends and families often share this special summer meze during a hot day at the beach.

On Aegina, an island of pistachio trees off the coast of Athens in the Saronic Gulf, some of the best grilled octopus can be found in the southern seaside village of Perdika.

Small sailboats and speedboats are docked in the tiny port. Just above the port are the fish tavernas. The busiest is Miltos, a whitewashed little place with blue doors and outdoor tables. A street musician with a sunburned face plays a folk song on his clarinet. He weaves through tables, serenading local families, Spanish tourists and me and two journalist friends from Athens.

A young waiter runs through the menu. "Sea urchin salad, eggplant dip, fish roe dip, sardines, red mullet and, of course, octopus," he says. "The grilled octopus is especially good."

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