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This story begins with a lemon. It appeared not long ago on a houseboat-cum-food lab docked outside Scandinavia's temple of local food, the restaurant noma, in Copenhagen.
"Isn't that, like, the forbidden fruit?," I ask. "Are you allowed to have a lemon here?"
"I don't know why that's sitting there," says Ben Reade, the lab's head of culinary research and development, looking perplexed.
An anthropologist, Mark Emil Tholstrup Hermansen, pipes in, "We have an Italian on the boat."
Reade concurs: "He needs a lemon every so often for staff food."
Hermansen remembers the lemon had actually been requested by the boat's resident flavor chemist for an experiment.
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