Morning Edition host David Greene traveled to Crimea to see what's changed since Russia sent troops in this spring and shortly afterward annexed the territory despite widespread international criticism. His stories will be on air and online this week.
I was traveling through flat farmland on a two-lane road in the far north of Crimea, when suddenly it was interrupted by a checkpoint. Actually, Russia now considers it the border, a physical reminder of the new divide between Russia and Ukraine — and the West.
A guy in military camouflage, with a Kalashnikov rifle slung over his shoulder, sees NPR producer Lauren Migaki with her tape recorder going, and he makes it clear he wants it off.
She turns off the recorder. But that's not enough. Another guy in military fatigues comes over says we broke the law as foreigners by being so close to a Russian border. He takes our passports and asks our interpreter to come with him, leaving us to wait.
This little episode was a personal reminder that Russia is now in control. All across Crimea the signs of Russian power and influence have arrived.
Ukrainian flags that flew atop government buildings have been removed, replaced by Russian flags. Menus in restaurants have been reprinted with prices in Russian rubles. New labels have been glued on wine bottles — even older vintages — saying the wine is from "Crimea, Russia."
Map of Crimea
Credit: Alyson Hurt / NPR
And, there's a wall, perhaps a mile or so long, running alongside the road from Crimea's main airport. There are murals painted by school children who were assigned a theme: We Love Russia.
There are outlines of the Crimean peninsula painted in colors of the Russian flag and scenes from Crimean cities. But someone took a section of a mural and painted a heart over it in the Ukrainian colors, blue and yellow.
So there is resistance to Russia's takeover here, even if you don't hear it openly.
Still, many Crimeans are elated to join Russia. And what Russia has going for it is a very deep history here.
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Most of the artwork on this wall near Crimea's main airport is pro-Russian. But the blue-and-yellow heart is painted in the colors of Ukraine's flag, and the green line covers the word "Russia." Lauren Migaki /NPR hide caption
itoggle caption Lauren Migaki /NPR
Most of the artwork on this wall near Crimea's main airport is pro-Russian. But the blue-and-yellow heart is painted in the colors of Ukraine's flag, and the green line covers the word "Russia."
Lauren Migaki /NPR
The Crimean city of Sevastopol has this vast harbor opening on to the Black Sea. Ships travel south from here to Turkey, then through the Bosphorous Strait and out to the Mediterranean Sea. This explains why Russia has for centuries anchored its Black Sea naval fleet here.
After the Soviet Union broke apart in 1991, Russia rented and shared the harbor with Ukraine's navy. But now, Russia is taking all the spoils. The Ukrainian naval vessels in Sevastopol now belong to Russia, our guide tells us.
Sevastopol doesn't seem to fear change because it's been through so much of it. In World War II, the city was attacked and occupied by the Nazis who leveled almost every structure in town. The Soviet navy eventually drove the Nazis out and liberated it.
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Russia established the Crimean port of Sevastopol in the 18th century. After the Soviet breakup in 1991, Russia and Ukraine shared the naval base. But Russia has now taken the entire base, including Ukrainian ships. Max Avdeev for NPR hide caption
itoggle caption Max Avdeev for NPR
Russia established the Crimean port of Sevastopol in the 18th century. After the Soviet breakup in 1991, Russia and Ukraine shared the naval base. But Russia has now taken the entire base, including Ukrainian ships.
Max Avdeev for NPR
This place has been filled with Soviet pride since then and all through the Cold War when submarines from this port spied on the U.S.
I remember as a kid imagining those Soviet subs out there lurking in the oceans. My image was Sean Connery as the commander, like in the movie The Hunt for Red October.
How could we pass up the chance to meet a real Soviet sub commander. So we took a taxi up a hill from the harbor. The driver was blaring Soviet tunes as he took us to the home of Valentin Danilov, former executive officer on a Soviet sub. Danilov, 83, is in full uniform, from the old Soviet glory days.
The dark blue uniform is cleanly pressed. A navy cap is trimmed with gold. A submarine pin is on his chest. On the shoulder is the blue and white flag of the Russian navy. He loves to wear it in public. During the 23 years after the Soviet collapse, when this was Ukraine, he got some dirty looks wearing the uniform. Those looks disappeared once Russia annexed Crimea.
"You feel more secure when you see guys in uniform walking down the street," Danilov explains. "It's good not only for men, but women love it."
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The most important woman in Danilov's life was married to him for 60 years. She died a few months ago. He walks us into the apartment where he lived with her, apologizing for the mess. I'm a bachelor, he tells us. He says he's so happy his wife lived long enough to see Crimea return to Russia.
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"My wife was energized," Danilov says. "Back in March, she was in the hospital. Her condition was severe, very bad. When she heard about this great news, it gave her power and energy to live a couple months more."
Before we leave, Danilov utters that Russian phrase that's either inviting or terrifying, depending on your mood. "Na pasashok," or "One for the road."
We say yes, and the captain brings out his homemade whiskey, along with pickles and sliced pork fat.
Older Crimeans, like Danilov, have lived in three different countries. The Soviet Union, then Ukraine, and now Russia. All within 25 years. They haven't actually moved anywhere. But they feel like they've returned home.
Crimea
Russia